Inicio GASTRONÓMICA La crítica gastronómica de Paola Miglio al restaurante El Chinguirito

La crítica gastronómica de Paola Miglio al restaurante El Chinguirito

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«Es un espacio para ir a comer un buen cebiche, hacerse de unos cuántos platos más y punto. No hay más drama ni misterios»

En El Chinguirito el movimiento es constante y en la entrada un cartel
reza que son únicos, que no hay sucursales. Quienes reciben en la puerta ya están acostumbrados y organizan la entrada para que sea fluida y las colas de espera no sean tan largas. Sobre todo durante los fines de semana. Este pequeño rincón de cocina chiclayana en Lince ya tiene nombre hecho y clientela. Es un huarique como los de antaño: carta que abarca casi todo el repertorio norteño, porciones individuales y fuentes para compartir, chicha a la orden, cerveza fría y atención rápida para permitir la eficaz rotación de clientes. Hay bulla, hay un caos ordenado que les permite fluir con las órdenes sin demora. Hay atención precisa y amable mas no servil y una preparación del cebiche a cocina abierta donde se realizan las mezclas velozmente.

El Chinguirito es un espacio para ir a comer un buen cebiche, hacerse de unos cuántos platos más y punto. No hay más drama ni misterios.
Y así llego un sábado de enero, de esos en los que el sol limeño no sabe si salir o quedarse en casa, pero en los que el calor no perdona. Espera corta, mesa para tres. Mejor compartir cuando se come, sobre todo, pescados y mariscos. El arranque es el cebiche ciclón: pescado y
chinguirito (carne seca deshilachada de guitarra), ligero, balanceado, con el punto ácido y picante justo. Nada de excesos. Corre amable y
se anima con una cancha especialmente crocante. Nos deja buen sabor de boca y se acompaña con unas delgadas tortillas de choclo fritas, de bordes crujientes y centro blando y maleable. La reacción es inmediata: se parten en trozos pequeños, se humedecen en la leche de tigre del cebiche. Se escapan sonrisas de satisfacción.

El sudado de mariscos llega contundente. No es un caldo fácil ni ligero, tiene presencia y un sabor de choros que no oculta su carácter. No tiene langostinos, la carta los anuncia pero es necesario evitarlos cuando hay veda de langostinos de mar, y al preguntar de dónde vienen los que sirven en otros platos, la respuesta de quien atiende es vaga. Al final es un plato redondo así como está, con un pescado que se desprende delicadamente, que mantiene su importancia sin ahogarse en tanta hortaliza. Quizá las cebollas pudieron estar más crujientes para generar un agradable juego de texturas. La porción personal es justa y la acompaña arroz blanco y yuca suave, que se deshace como la mantequilla.

Los dos platos que faltan completan el pequeño festín: un arroz con pato deshuesado y un chicharrón de calamar, como para caer en lo clásico y sencillo. En lo sabatino confortable. El primero conserva sus sabores tradicionales y el ave se plantea tierna y sabrosa. El arroz podría estar mejor: la sazón es buena pero el graneado no está en su punto. Hay que tener cuidado, eso sí, con el deshuesado del pato: si bien en la pulpa no hay error, algunos huesillos se infiltraron en el  arroz. El chicharrón de calamar, un plato tan de rutina, debió llegar
impecable, mas se cometió un grave error: demasiado empanizado hizo que el marisco casi desapareciese.

El Chinguirito no ha cambiado con el tiempo. No necesita hacerlo. Tiene clientela cautiva y se ha sabido sostener manteniendo un sabor sin agresiones posteriores al banquete. Es comida que cae bien porque
el tiempo da la maña y dicta las cantidades precisas para no errar. Es bueno que existan estos lugares en Lima. Es bueno que la comida regional se demuestre franca y casera. Cuentan que los lunes hay espesado. Hay que volver.

AL DETALLE

Puntos: 14 de 20
Tipo de restaurante: huarique chiclayano.
Dirección: jirón Francisco de Zela 2048, Lince.
Horario: todos los días de 12 m. a 4 p.m.
Estacionamiento: puerta calle, hay amables cuidadores que le ayudarán a encontrar un espacio. Bebidas: chicha, cerveza, agua,
shots de pisco y vino del día. Infusiones. Precio medio por persona
(sin bebidas): S/ 50.

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